Having previously worked for iconic labels such as Christopher Shannon, Christopher Kane and Perks and Mini (P.A.M), Amanda Cumming and Kate Reynolds established their independent fashion label PAGEANT in 2010. Drawing inspiration from diverse realms and praised for their innovation and ingenuity, PAGEANT collections advocated an alternate vision of femininity that was fresh, fierce and current. Their garments were forged from technically sophisticated fabrics, with aesthetic odes to sportswear.
With fans in Australia and around the globe, including Ruth Chapman the founder of MatchesFashion.com who pointed to their “strong brand DNA and high level of creativity” and Susie Bubble of Style Bubble who described their collections as “going from strength to strength”, PAGEANT was a label that looked set for great heights. Then in 2018 they decided to take a break from the label, leaving the fashion community questioning whether we’d ever see another PAGEANT collection again. Thankfully, that question has now been answered with a resounding yes.
We speak to Kate and Amanda about the making of Pageant, how they’ve fared over the past few years and their plans to revive one of Australia’s favourite labels.
Charlotte Agnew: What is your first memory of fashion?
Kate Reynolds: My most vivid memory is around the time I started attending kindergarten. I think it was the first time I was conscious of how an accessory (my chosen handbag and its contents) would affect me. I was quite a little diva during that time and Mum said I would refuse to leave the house until I had figured it all out. I was also in charge of the dress-up box during this time and I would style outfits for my kinder friends to wear too!
Amanda Cumming: A lot of my early memories around fashion are of my mum and her sisters, they were like style icons for me! We had a pretty extensive dress-up box including hand me downs from one of my aunties 80’s wardrobe, and I spent a lot of time dressing up with my siblings, cousins and friends, dancing to Madonna! My mum would also sew a lot of my clothes and I loved going to the local fabric store and getting to choose the pattern and fabric to make something.
What does fashion represent for you in your daily existence?
Amanda: Creative expression, I dress pretty practically but I do get obsessed with particular colours and gravitate towards wearing those colours for a period of time - right now my faves are green and purple.
Kate: Expression, a way to communicate or hide how I am feeling. For me even the type of footwear I choose is directly related to the state of my brain.
Where did you study fashion design? What was your most valued lesson learnt during your education?
Kate: I studied the Bachelor of Design – Fashion Design at RMIT University in Melbourne. The most valued lesson I learnt during my education was to cherish the amount of time you have to develop and experiment creatively and to really dig deep within yourself and have a play. It was such a great time to push my boundaries and develop a strong work ethic.
Amanda: I studied alongside Kate in the Bachelor of Design (Fashion) at RMIT. I really loved how the course allowed for total creative expression, Kate’s right, you never seem to have that luxury again and I always feel nostalgic thinking back to my grad year. It also had a focus on multidisciplinary design, so I think that has definitely shaped how I approach fashion in general.
What goes into the development of a fashion brand in Australia? Where are we fortunate in creating and where are we undervalued compared to global fashion cities?
Kate: Lots of hard work which is such a cliché but it’s so true. The scene is Melbourne is quite supportive but maybe not taken as seriously as compared to Sydney on a global scale. When I lived in London if felt that the fashion industry was such a staple in the conversation of the city and day to day life in general.
Amanda: Agreed - a lot of hard work! I think building strong relationships with collaborators, suppliers and manufacturers who understand your vision is key to developing an authentic product. There are so many small scale labels or underground artists doing amazing things in Australia and it would be so great to see that celebrated more widely on a global scale!
What would you recommend to the Australian industry (magazines/retail/universities?) for smaller independent brands such as yours to sustain growth and establish. themselves internationally?
Amanda: I think support in establishing relationships with suppliers and manufacturers is key, but also support in business management and understanding the financial management of a brand. In terms of building presence internationally, I think that creating a digital following is important, especially right now when we can’t travel, however how you do this should come from an authentic place and reflect the values of your brand.
Kate: I feel smaller brands in the Australian fashion industry in general need better access to grants, sharing of information, resources, factories and suppliers. There is help available but sometimes a small brand may not fit the specific criteria and which can lead to missed business opportunities and lack of sustainable growth.
What made you choose to pause Pageant?
Kate: We decided to take a break on a high note after showing our Tunnel Vision Resort 18 collection at MBFWA. Working as a tiny team where almost everything was done in house we really needed to take some time for ourself and recalibrate.
Amanda: It was good to talk a break after that collection, we were pretty worn out and really just needed some time to reflect. I had a baby the following year so it was really nice for me to take time out to focus on my family.
What have you understood and been motivated by to want to re-establish the brand in 2021?
Amanda: I think the fashion industry has shifted dramatically in the past year in how brands are working and communicating fashion - it has really made me question what constitutes a fashion brand so I am excited to build that thinking into our next project. I am interested in working at a slower pace and producing designs with integrity, meaning and expression. And also having the opportunity with work creatively with Kate again, I’ve missed that!
Kate: Taking a break has been a really positive experience and made me feel really proud of what we achieved. It has been so nice to look at our brand with fresh eyes and to start to imagine what PAGEANT 2.0 could be. After working for different brands and as a freelance creative it feels right to come back and work together in a new way that complements our lifestyles and to take a smaller more manageable approach. I am really excited to be collaborating with my best friend again under the umbrella of the brand again!
What sets Australia apart from the rest of the world in terms of our ideas?
Amanda: I think because sometimes we can feel so far removed from the rest of the world, it can give designers and creatives freedom of expression and in turn produce exciting outcomes that challenge stagnant parts of the industry.
Kate: Obviously the physical distance can create a lot of creative freedom. You have to work harder to be noticed by the rest of the world and at times have access to less resources and industry opportunities.
What do you want to see more of in Australian fashion?
Kate: I would really love to see consumers engaging in a more dynamic way, I feel generally people could be looser with their fashion expression.
Amanda: Authentic expression and unique ideas! Also, a slower pace in releasing collections.
What do you want to see less of in Australian fashion?
Amanda: It feels really frustrating when you see designers copying each other, the fun part of the process is finding a fabric or idea that is unique!
Kate: Homogenisation, although that really feels like a global trend to be honest. Australian fashion seems very stuck in a ‘lifestyle aesthetic’ which at times feels very limited to specific garment types, silhouettes and fabrications.
What was your favourite Pageant piece from past collections?
Kate: I have so many favourites in the archive but I would say the Trap Skivvy – a mesh turtleneck with a sporty contrast gusset is always a good time to wear. I am obsessed with skivvies so I own this style in multiple colourways!
Amanda: There are so many to choose from but I would have say the Wobble T-shirt, I probably wear it every second day! And I love the MA-1 fighter pieces from our Signals collection, they were fun to work on!
What is a piece that people still ask you for today?
Amanda: The Wobble story from our Resort 18 Tunnel Vision collection - probably because I wear it all the time! Also our swimwear pieces.
Kate: I am always being asked about the Camo Overcoat from our AW5 Ladies collection, it has multiple zips at the back so you can unzip and ride a motorbike if desired!